Take a page from a Parisian vacationer’s handbook and consider Marseille for your French getaway. This vibrant, energetic port city has emerged as a superb destination for those who seek an authentic tourist experience in France. It’s the second largest city in the country after Paris and the oldest city. Soak up the Mediterreanean ambience of the multiethnic metropolis, where the blue waters of the Côte d’Azur are never far away and charming cobblestone streets wind their way past red-roofed houses and bustling squares. Marseille – while it has its fair share of intriguing sites – isn’t necessarily about a slew of must-see attractions, but instead about the culture and atmosphere of the place. This is where you come to feel the spirit of southern France and the Provençal coastline. That being said, here’s how to feel like a local in Marseilles.
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1. Visit Vieux Port, Then Go Farther
You’ll want to explore Vieux Port (Old Port), which is really the birthplace of Marseilles – the city’s origins date back to around 600 BC when this was a Greek port. Walk around the bustling harbor and indulge in fresh local seafood at waterfront restaurants. Greet the anglers who work the first market at Quai des Belges in the early morning hours. But then, venture farther afield to get to know the city’s quartiers, each with a distinctive personality and really why this large city feels more like a collection of small villages. Head to the bourgeois-bohemian village of Vauban, serene Longchamp, up-and-coming Chave or the nightlife-heavy scene in Cours Julien.
Pro tip: Be sure to pack sturdy walking shoes. As you explore the villages of Marseilles, you’ll encounter cobblestone streets, uphill and down, and staircases everywhere.
You’ll want to explore Vieux Port (Old Port), which is really the birthplace of Marseilles – the city’s origins date back to around 600 BC when this was a Greek port. Walk around the bustling harbor and indulge in fresh local seafood at waterfront restaurants. Greet the anglers who work the first market at Quai des Belges in the early morning hours. But then, venture farther afield to get to know the city’s quartiers, each with a distinctive personality and really why this large city feels more like a collection of small villages. Head to the bourgeois-bohemian village of Vauban, serene Longchamp, up-and-coming Chave or the nightlife-heavy scene in Cours Julien.
Pro tip: Be sure to pack sturdy walking shoes. As you explore the villages of Marseilles, you’ll encounter cobblestone streets, uphill and down, and staircases everywhere.
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2. Visit the Famous Notre-Dame to Get Your Bearings
The Roman-Byzantine Notre-Dame de la Garde is Marseille’s top attraction, but also its highest point, affording a good lay of the land. Visit early in your stay to get your bearings. Locals often bring offerings (ex-votos) to ask the 36-foot golden Madonna atop the basilica for her protection. Check out the lavish interior of the landmark church, with its marble arches and gilded mosaid cupolas, then head to the terrace for a 360-degree view of Marseilles and the Mediterranean Sea.
The Roman-Byzantine Notre-Dame de la Garde is Marseille’s top attraction, but also its highest point, affording a good lay of the land. Visit early in your stay to get your bearings. Locals often bring offerings (ex-votos) to ask the 36-foot golden Madonna atop the basilica for her protection. Check out the lavish interior of the landmark church, with its marble arches and gilded mosaid cupolas, then head to the terrace for a 360-degree view of Marseilles and the Mediterranean Sea.
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3. Use Public Transportation
Hop on the bus, metro and tram lines like a local. They run throughout the city center until 12:30 AM. Be patient because the bus lines do tend to run late – and they don’t go into the 12th to 16th arrondissements. (Just remember, in Marseille, being 15-30 minutes late is actually considered “on time,” so slow down and enjoy the laid-back cadence of life here.) There’s also a bike-share system in the city, as well as electric scooters for rent. Uber and Heetch (a French ride-share program) both operate here.
Hop on the bus, metro and tram lines like a local. They run throughout the city center until 12:30 AM. Be patient because the bus lines do tend to run late – and they don’t go into the 12th to 16th arrondissements. (Just remember, in Marseille, being 15-30 minutes late is actually considered “on time,” so slow down and enjoy the laid-back cadence of life here.) There’s also a bike-share system in the city, as well as electric scooters for rent. Uber and Heetch (a French ride-share program) both operate here.
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4. Find Vintage Fashion Where the Locals Do
If you’re into second-hand, retro and vintage fashion, head to Cours Julien and shop to your heart’s content in boutique after boutique. This neighborhood, as well as the 6th arrondissement are full of clothing, interior design items and antiques just waiting to find their new owner. Another fun shop? France’s oldest hardware store, Maison Empereur, dating back to 1827. There are hipsters vying for Opinel knives and Laboureur blue cotton jackets, but also workaday carpenters picking up nails and door hinges.
If you’re into second-hand, retro and vintage fashion, head to Cours Julien and shop to your heart’s content in boutique after boutique. This neighborhood, as well as the 6th arrondissement are full of clothing, interior design items and antiques just waiting to find their new owner. Another fun shop? France’s oldest hardware store, Maison Empereur, dating back to 1827. There are hipsters vying for Opinel knives and Laboureur blue cotton jackets, but also workaday carpenters picking up nails and door hinges.
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5. Get Lost in Marseille’s Nature
Go outside the city limits for a break from urban sprawl. This is where you’ll find Calanques National Park, famous for its azure water and white limestone cliffs. There’s hiking, boating, rock climbing, kayaking and more. To get there, hire a local skipper to take you or hop on the 21 bus to Luminy, then hike for 45 minutes to the Calanque de Sugiton. Another outdoor option is to join the locals who head to the Les Aygalades waterfall on the weekends for a refreshing swim. Back in the city, those in the know flock to the Borely Park Japanese Garden – bring a picnic and join them in the shade on a hot summer’s day
Go outside the city limits for a break from urban sprawl. This is where you’ll find Calanques National Park, famous for its azure water and white limestone cliffs. There’s hiking, boating, rock climbing, kayaking and more. To get there, hire a local skipper to take you or hop on the 21 bus to Luminy, then hike for 45 minutes to the Calanque de Sugiton. Another outdoor option is to join the locals who head to the Les Aygalades waterfall on the weekends for a refreshing swim. Back in the city, those in the know flock to the Borely Park Japanese Garden – bring a picnic and join them in the shade on a hot summer’s day
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6. Eat Pizza, Not Bouillabaisse
While fresh local seafood should definitely be on your must-taste list while in Marseille, add pizza to the docket. Neapolitan immigrants first brought their favorite dish to the city at the turn of the 20th century. In a nod to the sea, the classic Marseilles pizza comes with anchovies – or, ask for half-anchovy, half cheese (a moit-moit) or an arménienne (ground beef and onion), a nod to the city’s large Armenian community. On the other hand, trying the famous bouillabaisse is really up to you – it comes with a high price tag due to intense marketing, which is in direct opposition to the stew’s humble start as a dish for the working-class, made from leftover fish (locals rarely make it or eat it themselves).
While fresh local seafood should definitely be on your must-taste list while in Marseille, add pizza to the docket. Neapolitan immigrants first brought their favorite dish to the city at the turn of the 20th century. In a nod to the sea, the classic Marseilles pizza comes with anchovies – or, ask for half-anchovy, half cheese (a moit-moit) or an arménienne (ground beef and onion), a nod to the city’s large Armenian community. On the other hand, trying the famous bouillabaisse is really up to you – it comes with a high price tag due to intense marketing, which is in direct opposition to the stew’s humble start as a dish for the working-class, made from leftover fish (locals rarely make it or eat it themselves).
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7. Soak Up History at Fort Saint-Jean
Adjacent to Vieux Port beside Fort Saint-Nicolas, you’ll find the 17th-century Fort Saint-Jean. Upon closer inspection, you’ll notice that the fortress – while it seems to be protecting the city – features canons that are pointed at the city itself. Louis XIV used the fort to protect from local uprisings. Today you can climb a turreted tower, walk through the Jardin des Migrations (where plants represent a period of Marseille history) and wander along the fort’s many arched walkways.
Adjacent to Vieux Port beside Fort Saint-Nicolas, you’ll find the 17th-century Fort Saint-Jean. Upon closer inspection, you’ll notice that the fortress – while it seems to be protecting the city – features canons that are pointed at the city itself. Louis XIV used the fort to protect from local uprisings. Today you can climb a turreted tower, walk through the Jardin des Migrations (where plants represent a period of Marseille history) and wander along the fort’s many arched walkways.
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8. Understand the Multicultural Mosaic of Marseilles
With a steady stream of eastern European and African immigrants, as well as Jewish and Muslim families, Marseilles boasts a melting-pot culture. Visit the MuCEM (Museum of European and Mediterranean Civilizations) for a look at traditional Arab architecture, brilliantly created by Algerian-born, Provence-based Rudy Ricciotti. The exterior of the museum is free to visit. Head inside to view the museum’s three different galleries – a modern section with permanent collections exploring the history and culture of Mediterranean civilization, a section in the vaulted rooms of Fort Saint-Jean and a Conservation Center, with an insightful look into the continuing work of the museum.
With a steady stream of eastern European and African immigrants, as well as Jewish and Muslim families, Marseilles boasts a melting-pot culture. Visit the MuCEM (Museum of European and Mediterranean Civilizations) for a look at traditional Arab architecture, brilliantly created by Algerian-born, Provence-based Rudy Ricciotti. The exterior of the museum is free to visit. Head inside to view the museum’s three different galleries – a modern section with permanent collections exploring the history and culture of Mediterranean civilization, a section in the vaulted rooms of Fort Saint-Jean and a Conservation Center, with an insightful look into the continuing work of the museum.
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9. Toast Your Marseille Moment at Apéro
Apéro is a treasured part of local Marseille life. After work, pre-sunset, and often lingering into the evening hours, apero is a time to people-watch and hash out the events of the day. Order a rosé, then go ahead, add an ice cube or two to chill or dilute it – it’s not considered gauche here! Supplement your cocktail with a plate of panisses (chickpea fritters) or charcuterie and you’ll be living your best Marseilles life.